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For me, a visit to Cambodia is emotionally charged.Each day I laugh hysterically or sob uncontrollably, usually both.[caption id="attachment_2166" align="alignnone" width="261"] Tonle Sap map: pale blue outline shows lake at extent of annual flood.[/caption] Fish fatten, rice paddies flourish and the people eat well.Sadly, new dams upstream in southern China where the Mekong begins its journey through Southeast Asia present potentially damaging environmental problems in a country that has already experienced more than most.When the rainy season reaches full stride during the torrid Cambodian summer, life here changes rapidly.Fickle climate change has increased unpredictability. Now, heavy rain may fall at any time, though January through May is normally dry.

To gain an appreciation of what lies waiting to be explored, head to Phnom Bakheng atop Temple Mountain and be amazed at the sweeping vista, a sure invitation to venture further a field.Add rampant local corruption to the tale and sadness becomes the overarching narrative.Most travellers in Siem Reap spend a few days at the great temples, undoubtedly among Asia’s magnificent sights.In short, I’m not appreciating what I should be appreciating and need a break. [caption id="attachment_2181" align="alignnone" width="336"] Angkor Wat complex gateway arch.[/caption] Prepared for a week’s touring around Siem Reap to focus on Angkor Wat and to sample some of Cambodia’s intriguing cuisine, I am fortunate instead to be allowed a glimpse into present day realities, a privilege granted by the Hotel de la Paix.I could have stayed at any one of numerous hotels in Siem Reap, the pickings are ripe.

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